Anse Chastanet, Saint Lucia
Most of my recent warm weather vacationing has taken place in the Hawaiian Islands. I’ve lived on the West Coast of the United States for many years, and love Hawaii for its proximity, beauty and the spirit of Aloha. Getting off the plane and breathing in that warm, heavily oxygenated air, is the best welcome ever.
The islands of the Caribbean conjure up vague memories of trips I took years ago, when I was a New Yorker. An opportunity was arising for a few nights somewhere, as I was flying to Miami for my Uncle Bobby’s 90th birthday dinner and the Caribbean is close by. Saint Lucia, with its distinguishing peaks, the Pitons, is home to a resort I’ve known about for a while, Anse Chastanet. People go on and on about how special it is. Yes, it’s pricey but off season there are deals to be had. On December 6th, 2018, I flew south from Miami to Hewanorra Airport on Saint Lucia, 1500 miles and three hours away by plane.
Going Up The Hill To Anse Chastanet
The island has quite a history. Josephine, Empress of France, spent much of her childhood here. It has endured hurricanes, earthquakes, fires, and intermittent conflicts between the English and French, as to ownership. St. Lucia is now part of the British Commonwealth.
Welcome to Anse Chastanet
The last two miles of road climbing up to Anse Chastanet are deeply rutted with hairpin turns. Basically a one-way road with two-way traffic. Thankfully I was distracted by the stunning views as we made our way up the hill in a van with an excellent local driver. I sat in front with him and we talked about life on the island. Families speak a fusion language, Creole, at home. “And if you have work in the hospitality industry,” he said, smiling, “that’s a very good thing!”
Saint Lucians are a gracious, laughter-prone people and the cheerful staff at Anse Chastanet is a delight to be around. Owners Nick (architect) and Karolin Troubetzkoy have created a multi-faceted resort on a hillside above the water, next to a rain forest, spanning two beaches with a world class reef and impressive dining options. There is also a wide-ranging choice of activities if and when you can tear yourself away from sand and sea.
Tasting the Emerald Estate Chocolate
Upon arrival I was invited to a chocolate tasting, which gets any vacation off to a good start. I learned that the resort has its own farm and on that farm are approximately two thousand cacao trees, which provide beans for the in-house production of Nick Troubetzkoy’s Emerald Estate Chocolate. It is delicious.
Anse Chastanet Accomodations
My hillside room, pure tranquility and craftsmanship, came with a balcony for watching the sun set over the water. At dusk the rain forest’s nocturnal creatures turn up the volume and render the sound of waves coming ashore, inaudible. I was worried that a cacophony of bird calls would keep me up at night but I slept like a baby, doors wide open with protective netting around the bed, although it was not needed. Are there really no mosquitos in December?
I fell in love with the Lesser Antillean Bullfinch and the Bananaquit.
Lesser Antillean Bullfinch (left) and Bananaquit (right), Saint Lucia
First full day at Anse Chastanet began with breakfast in the Treehouse Restaurant. Just look at the array of fresh juices.
French Toast was accompanied by hand whipped cream, pure maple syrup and fruit preserves.
Frech Toast at the Treehouse/Anse Chastanet/Saint Lucia
What came next ranks up there as one of the best beach days ever. Hiding from the sun underneath my grass canopy, I tried to read but was too restless. Wanted to swim but was too lazy. I needed to do something. Relaxing is hard work.
Contemplating options, I ordered a carambola fruit drink and grabbed snorkel gear (complimentary for resort guests). Every day I snorkeled. About ten yards from the beach is a healthy, protected reef teeming with fish. Favorite sighting was an octopus emerging from a sandy crevice below a rocky ledge. He was so completely camouflaged, I never would have seen him had he not moved.
The reef at Anse Chastanet
Lunch proved to be as good as breakfast and the location could not be beat.
Anse Chastanet Beach/Saint Lucia
By 4pm I was completely relaxed. Then Mother Nature organized a brief rain shower while the sun was shining.
Day two was a duplicate of day one. Claim a hut. Go snorkeling. Eat lunch on the beach, but instead of staying put, I hopped aboard the resort’s water taxi and landed at their other beach, Anse Mamin. I ordered lunch from the Jungle Grill and took a seat.
Waiting For Lunch at Anse Mamin Beach, Anse Chastanet Resort/Saint Lucia
Lunch came. It was so good. I kept saying to myself all day, “Pinch me. Is this real?”
Caribbean Slaw With Jerk Chicken And Carambola Juice/Jungle Grill at Anse Mamin
Next morning I hopped inside a van for a guided tour with a few other resort guests and we climbed up into the hills above the town of Soufriere. Our first destination was Emerald Farm (acquired by the Troubetzkoys), where many of the ingredients used by the chefs at Anse Chastanet are organically grown. We were greeted by Matthew Hanson, the farmer in charge of operations. It’s a big job. Cultivate what is traditional. Innovate and improve at the same time, with a limited amount of resources. The farm grows ornamental plants used in the landscaping at Anse Chastanet, along with vegetables, fruits, nuts and herbs.
Matthew Hudson/In The Greenhouse/Emerald Farm
One of the current challenges for Hanson is finding the right spot for planting strawberries, as the resort chefs could find many wonderful uses for them. So far, no luck. They get soggy, are disease-prone and won’t produce large juicy berries. The morning of my visit, a gardener was making cages for tomatoes.
Emerald Farm/Saint Lucia
Clearly the most precious component of the property is the forest of cacao trees, where the bean-to-bar process for Emerald Estate Chocolate begins.
Cacao Pod Almost Ripe/Emerald Farm/Saint Lucia/
These trees begin to bear fruit, called cacao pods, in their fifth year. Each pod takes four to five months to grow and contains forty to fifty beans.
The Beginnings of Chocolate/Cacao Pods at Emerald Farm on Saint Lucia
The main harvest is in January. The beans are fermented, dried in the sun, and delivered to The Chocolate Lab at Jade Mountain Resort, also a Troubetzkoy property, where the bean-to-bar process is completed.
Matthew Hanson Holding A Cacao Pod/Beans Drying In The Sun/Anse Chastanet’s Emerald Farm/Saint Lucia
Next stop in the van was Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens and Mineral Baths, where we were met by a very knowledgable guide. He led us through the gardens, pointing out special blooming plants.
Pink Torch Ginger/Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens and Mineral Baths/Saint Lucia
Saint Lucia is a very colorful island. Even the caterpillars look festive.
Costa Rica Sphinx Caterpillar/ Saint Lucia
A short path through lush vegetation led us to Diamond Waterfall, rich with minerals including sulphur, magnesium, copper sulphate, iron, manganese and calcium. The color of the cliffs change as the mineral content of the water varies.
Diamond Falls/Saint Lucia
The final activity before heading back to the resort, was a good soak in the mineral baths on site. They were originally built for the French troops of Louis XVI. If I had to describe the water in one word I would call it silky. This island is volcanic, with multiple geothermal springs.
Mineral Baths/Diamond Falls/Saint Lucia
That night ice cream made with Emerald Estate Chocolate was on the dessert menu and it blew my mind.
Emerald Estate Chocolate Ice Cream With Chocolate Twigs/Treehouse Restaurant/Anse Chastanet
I made an inquiry. “Would it be possible to interview one of the resort chefs, for an article I am planning to write about my stay?” It was arranged and first thing after breakfast on my 4th day, I sat down with Executive Pastry Chef, Alexander Daneel and Executive Sous Chef, Adam Qureshi for an animated chat about the joys and challenges of their positions. Both of these men have extensive resumes, have worked all over the world in fine establishments. What brought them to Anse Chastanet/Jade Mountain in Saint Lucia?
Executive Pastry Chef Alexander Daneel (left) and Executive Sous Chef Adam Qureshi (right)
Daneel came for the Emerald Estate Chocolate, meticulously tended from bean to bar and delivered to him as needed for the making of desserts. Where else do you have access to such a pristine product?
Qureshi came for the farm produce and the people. Soursop, wax apples, mangoes and cherries, sweet potatoes, star fruit, squash, citrus, vegetables, herbs and and more, come from Emerald Farm and other local growers. Qureshi says it’s important to support as much agriculture on the island as possible. Every day he speaks with farmers and procures the best ingredients for his dishes. “It is very unique for a hotel to have its own farm.” Thus, when creating a menu, Qureshi can depend upon a wide variety of island crops. The most unique restaurant at Anse Chastanet is beachside Apsara. Described as Saint Lucia/East Indian fusion cuisine, the result is a harmonious blend of cultures on a plate. As for the people, Qureshi says, “They are hard working and passionate about what they do.” And always smiling.
Julietta/Staff Member/Anse Chastanet/Saint Lucia
Both chefs agree that bringing a significant other to the island is challenging. Will he or she be able to continue working in their respective fields? Living on a small island near the equator far from family and friends might be a hard sell. Sounds like a fantastic opportunity, however, for a writer.
Here is a sample dinner menu item: Grilled local Saint Lucian Spiny Lobster with Coconut Rice Cake, Malabar Spinach and Passion Fruit Butter.
Anse Chastanet Beach/Saint Lucia
After the interview I went back out to the reef with snorkel and fins. I was bobbing around on the surface, quietly observing, arms wide open when a school of dazzling, iridescent fish came towards me. They split up and swam past, some to the left and some to the right. I could swear they were all smiling.
Nighty Night From Anse Chastanet/Saint Lucia
My last night on the island, just before bed, I figured it out. How could I make the most of my remaining beach time and also participate in one more excursion or activity? There is truly something of interest for everyone at Anse Chastanet, including opportunities to learn about the history, culture and people of Saint Lucia. One could choose to visit the mud baths, or go on a bird watching kayak tour. There are mountain hikes, rain forest hikes and jazzy sunset cruises, scuba diving, deep sea fishing, jungle biking and shopping trips to the capital, Castries, on the other side of the island. Did not choose any of these.
I chose to connect the food dots. First there was the Emerald Farm visit and then came a delightful chat with the resort chefs. I tasted the chocolate. There was only one thing left to do…make it.
Emerald Estate Chocolate Bar Made in the Chocolate Lab Class/Jade Mountain/Saint Lucia
The man behind the crafting of Emerald Estate Chocolate is Peter Gabriel. He is the Supervisor of Chocolate Production. When the beans have been fermented and sun dried on Emerald Farm, they are then delivered to Peter’s Chocolate Lab, where he makes all the chocolate and bon bons for the resort. I decided to spend my last few hours on the island, taking a chocolate making class with him. It is remarkable, just how low-tech his machinery is. The device that separates the skin from the nibs after the beans have been roasted, is a combination Champion Juicer/vacuum cleaner. According to Peter, “There are not a lot of repair options on the island if a machine breaks down, so the simpler, the better.”
In The Chocolate Lab With Peter Gabriel
There are only two ingredients used, sugar and the beans from Emerald Farm. What Peter Gabriel does next to turn it into chocolate, is part science, part art.
I put pistachio nuts on top of the chocolate bar I made.
Chocolate Class In The Chocolate Lab/Emerald Estate Chocolate/Saint Lucia
After one more swim in the sea I was back in a van, headed for the airport. This time the 2-mile unpaved, potholed portion of the mountain road did not bother me at all. Sitting up front, engaged in conversation with our driver, I took a mental picture of his expansive smile, a memento to bring home with me.
How would I sum up my experience at Anse Chastanet? It’s a once in a lifetime vacation I’d like to take each year.
Last Rays Pointing Towards Trou Au Diable Restaurant/Anse Chastanet
